I think the book's reputation precedes it for this one. I wanted to like it more than I actually did: female protagonist? atheism -- actual atheism -- as a starting point? Familiars that could talk and morph? It all sounded like a kink-hitter, but it all didn't quite work for me. It was at the very least a curious experience having a protagonist who I struggled to identify with, and I think, typing it out, that that's where most of my difficulties lay, despite the fact that the world was built well. Lyra was mostly someone inaccessible to me, particularly at the point where Pullman says: "Here she is, in the enemy's den, and she's totally calm because she lacks imagination and is certain that things will all work out fine." And I'm blinking and thinking: "okay, if she isn't concerned, why should I be?"
I felt a little stirring when she's standing in front of the Aurora, holding Pan and saying: "It's just us, together. Let's go!" and that's enough to make me pick up The Subtle Knife, and because I'm curious in spite of myself about how she'll view this 'new' world she's found herself in. (Plus, I bought all three in one hit, in very pretty covers. :))
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I have a suspicion that I have book 3 which may also be why I have not read it.